ASCENSION TO THE MONT BLANC 08
ASCENSION TO THE MONT BLANC 08
In the middle of August I came to the mythical and beautiful town of French mountain Chamonix in order to climb the Mont Blanc along with three Catalan clients and my friend guides of mountain Basque, Xabier Erro. The summit of this granitic massif is 4810 meters of altitude and it is the highest of the Alps.
It is difficult to me to go out very much of my astonishment and I cannot believe that I am before these impressive and famous mountains. The history of the mountaineering had its beginning in this place. My mind there parades large number of names that they transformed into legend, Ricardo Cassin, Walter Bonatti, Herman Bull, Reinhold Messner, they were the actors and these mountains were the stage.
Earlier my eyes present the Dru, Aguile du Midi with its imposing walls of "almost smooth rock, Mont Blanc du Tacul, the Mont Moudit to themselves, and of course impressive Mont Blanc silverware of snow and eternal glaciers.
This evening we walk along the Chamonix streets, go to two drugstores of the people where they publish the report of the free time for all the montañistas, and ohhhh!!!! surprise weather report he says that two days of bad weather are predicted, with rain in the vale and strong snowfalls on 2500m. We know that these "reports" of the time in the Alps have an almost perfect precision.
So we resign ourselves to spending two days covering Chamonix, where we are a large number of montañistas of the whole world that wait that the time gives them an opportunity.
The ambience in the people is distended and the bars and coffees fill with the people who thinks about how to relax a little before the adventure, creating a warm and agreeable ambience, where there are mixed languages of different parts of the world and histories related to the mountaineering can be listened. We meet friends of Xabier with whom we share experiences and anecdotes of trips to mountains of diverse nature and difficulty, meanwhile out it continues the torrential rain.
Finally, after two days, the sky dawns sunny and we start ourselves. We take the teleférico that deposits us at the station of famous Tren de Cremallera del Mont Blanc, hope only five minutes and tackle the train. After half an hour we come to the station Nest of Eagles where the train finishes the trip. From there there begins the walk of two hours and a half up to the Refuge Tete Rouge (3200 meters), where we will rest.
We have dinner at six o'clock in the afternoon and to the bed!!!! This it has to to that we have to divide to 1AM to be able to come to the summit in the morning, and thus go down before the sun begins to warm too much the snow, it turns it unstably and this way avoid the dangers of an awesome avalanche.
We get up to midnight to have breakfast and the refuge submerges in a frantic activity. At one o'clock exactly we are in the door strung and ready to begin the ascension.
The first 500 meters of difference pass in full darkness for a wall of III grade of difficulty. The stones buzz around us originated from the roped teams that climb ahead ours. At five o'clock in the morning we come to the refuge Gouter where there us join more roped teams that have spent the night in him.
After a small rest we leave behind the refuge cross earrings and covered with snow domes, cross large number of cracks, and in a small set we discern the emergency refuge Vallot. The temperature is low and the height allows to feel. Several roped teams tackle the return or "desmembran", I make sure that my clients are well and up I cheer them to continue.
Finally behind a covered with snow dome we manage to reach the thinnest terminal edge, which will deposit us in the covered with snow summit. A few steps more and at 9:10 a.m. we are in the summit!!!!!
We are crazy of happiness, embrace each other and congratulate, appreciate the wonderful Alpine sceneries and they do not stop surprising me the massive depositor of the Big Jorasses and to approximately 3000 thousand meters under our feet it is possible to discern clearly the Chamonix village.
After half an hour in the summit we tackle the descent before the heat of the beams of the sun they soften the snow and the avalanches risk becomes very unstable increased and that some snow bridge breaks under our feet for the weight of ours body and teams. Constantly we have that “there go out for us” of the edge of Them Bosses (this way it is its name) to pass him to backward roped teams that in these moments go towards the summit.
The descent is long, but we try to move carefully, there is large number of persons in the mountain and the risk that an accident takes place is big.
We come to the Refuge Tete Rouge, arm quickly our rucksacks and tackle a career against the clock to come to the last train that divides Chamonix, finally we come on time and squeezed we enter the train, do line to take the penultimate teleférico that lowers to the station of Them Houches and at 8 p.m. we are bathed and ready to have dinner in our hotel.
In the deepest of my being now there is a gap his his that earlier Mont Blanc was occupying, but quickly this gap disappears with the thought of exploring and promoting new mountains and I think that whenever sleep is had we will maintain the encouraged spirit, the strong heart and the clear mind.
Gonzalo dell Agnola
Guide of mountain of the Andes
In Magazine Atticus 11 Gonzalo he will tell to us how the company is prepared of attacking an expedition to the Aconcagua. Next week it will be already at your disposal in this space.
Filed file: General
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